In recent years,laser hair removalhas been promising the dream of smooth, stubble-free skin—a blissfully razor-free future! And the long-standing hype surrounding the treatment, we’re happy to report, is firmly rooted in reality. The benefits of laser hair removal are time-tested, consistent, and more universal than ever.This is a truly effective hair removal treatment, but the word "hair removal" doesn’t mean it will get rid of every hair.
While laser hair removal is popular for various body areas, facial treatment is common among women. Achieving lasting results typically requires six to eight sessions spaced over several weeks. Following these sessions, some maintenance may be necessary, but a significant reduction in hair growth—up to 90%—is achievable.
Innovations in Laser Hair Removal
Laser hair removal technology is, in fact, leaps and bounds ahead of where it was even just a few years back. Some of “the biggest innovations are in versatility, speed, and pain—meaninglackof pain,” says Dr. Frank. “It used to take an hour to treat each leg—and it wouldn’t be comfortable. Now we have technologies that allow us to do a leg in 15 minutes.”More monumental still, the latest cutting-edge devices allow practitioners to safely treat a truly inclusive range of skin tones—which has helped to mainstream laser hair removal for dark skin.
Due to the physics at play, hair removal lasers of the past would struggle to distinguish between pigment in a hair follicle—i.e. the laser’s target—and the pigment present in melanated skin. See, every laser hair removal device works by seeking out melanin within hair follicles. As the melanin absorbs the laser’s energy, light converts to heat, damaging the follicles and restricting hair growth. But if the laser confuses one source of pigment for another, complications, like burns and scars, can occur—which is why doctors have long been hesitant to perform laser hair removal on dark skin.
While technology has finally evolved to make laser hair removal for brown skin—and, yes, even laser hair removal for Black skin—infinitely safer, what remains off limits to those with darker complexions isintense pulsed light (IPL), which some doctor’s offices and medspas still rely on for “laser” hair removal (even though IPL is technically not a laser). “IPL is a nonspecific way to help get rid of hair,” Dr. Tsao says. That’s because it uses a wider, less targeted wavelength of light than a laser does, which means it’s less precise—and absolutelynotsafe for people with medium to dark skin.
This warning applies to DIY laser hair removal devices as well, since many of those tools are IPL machines rather than true lasers. Be sure to read the fine print if attempting laser hair removal at home for dark skin.“In general, IPL is best reserved for patients with fair skin and dark hair,” Dr. Tsao says. Even so, lasers provide more efficient hair reduction with less discomfort.
Minimizing Risks for the Best Laser Hair Removal Experience
While laser hair removal burns and side effects of laser hair removal, like skin lightening and darkening, are always possible, and dark skin types are most prone.To curtail laser hair removal risks, those with deep skin tones should seek a highly trained expert who fully understands the nuances of lasering skin of color and has the right tools for the job. A provider with multiple treatment options can offer access to safer, more effective, less painful devices.
Which brings us to aquestion: What is the best laser hair removal device? The answer is hardly straightforward, as different lasers cater to different skin colors. Some, like the diode, have shorter wavelengths that work well for fair skin. Those with longer wavelengths, like theNd:YAG laser(aka YAG), penetrate deeper, bypassing the melanin-dense surface, making them safer for laser hair removal on dark skin.
Dermatologists classify skin color using the Fitzpatrick scale (type I is the fairest; type VI, the darkest), and use this schema to choose the safest and most effective course of treatment.Here, your guide to the best laser for hair removal on every skin tone.
Laser Hair Removal for Fair SkinLaser Hair Removal for Fair SkinFor Caucasians and certain Asians: alexandrite or diode lasersLaser Hair Removal for Fair Skin
Those with fair skin and dark hair are ideal candidates for laser hair removal, due to the inherently contrasting tones. There is very little competing pigment in the form of epidermal pigmentation. The more pigment that’s present in the hair follicle, the more effective the actual hair removal treatment will be. Within six to eight treatments, 90% hair removal is possible with a low risk of side effects.
Caucasians and some northern Asians fall under the fair-skin umbrella; they’re classified as Fitzpatrick types I and II. Alexandrite laser hair removal devices are particularly effective and can lead to faster results for this group. Diode lasers are also good choices for fair folks.
Bear in mind, these pro recommendations and safety assurances hold only when fair skin is truly fair. If you slip up and get sun-kissed, let your tan fade for at least a few months before booking laser hair removal appointments.
While laser hair removal for fair skin and light hair—gray, white, blonde, or red—remains a challenge due to the lack of follicular melanin, hope is on the horizon. In the meantime, considerlaser hair removal.
Laser Hair Removal For Brown SkinFor light- to medium-brown skin: alexandrite, diode, or Nd:YAG lasers
Brown skin needs extra attention to ensure efficacy and safety. With someone who generally tans but is on the fairer side—a Fitzpatrick type III—we could potentially use an alexandrite or diode, but I’d select lower settings and longer pulse durations, to be safer.
With skin types III and IV, laser hair removal can get a little tricky. Choosing a lower fluence—meaning the energy of the laser pulse—minimizes the risk of complications. But among some ethnicities, particularly those of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern descent, doing so has up to a 10% chance of actuallystimulatinghair growth instead of destroying the follicle. Doctors aren’t entirely sure why this happens, but if it does, this doesn’t mean that a person isn’t a candidate for laser hair removal. It just means that you have to use higher fluences with a safe device so you destroy the stem cells instead of stimulating them.
For those with medium-brown skin (type IV), the deep-reaching Nd:YAG laser is an appropriate choice, because “it’s the laser that absorbs the least melanin,” curbing the risk of burns.
Laser Hair RemovalFor Dark-brown and Black Skin: Nd:YAG or Motus AX
While today’s lasers are decidedly more inclusive than their predecessors, folks with the darkest of skin (types V and VI) still face “a very significant risk of side effects,” warns Dr. Tsao. She reiterates the importance of seeing a laser-trained dermatologist who has multiple devices, extensive experience performing laser hair removal on Black skin, and a willingness to try a test site on the body. Even then, she says, proceed with caution.
The Nd:YAG is very suitable for Fitzpatrick types V and VI because “it goes deeper into the skin, protecting the epidermal [surface-level] melanin more,” Dr. Saedi says. Plus certain Nd:YAG lasers can provide bonus benefits beyond hair reduction alone, further boosting the appeal of YAG laser hair removal for dark skin.
In 2019, Dr. Saedi copublished anarticlein theJournal of Drugs in Dermatologythat described impressive results with theNd:YAG device typically used for photorejuvenation. “With the low-level light at a wavelength that is safe to use on dark skin, it calms down inflammation, stimulates collagen, and treats acne scars,” says Dr. Saedi. Dr. Frank has also found itseffective for African American patients. “As we remove the hair, it cosmetically removes all the dark stains people have from shaving and ingrowns,” he says.
Alexandrite laser hair removal, it’s worth noting, is typically a poor choice for patients with dark skin, which “slowly delivers laser heat so that there is no burn related to skin color or hair,” Dr. Frank says. The handpiece has a sapphire tip that cools on contact, directing more energy to the hair instead of the skin. Doctors have been pleasantly surprised by its safety and efficacy when performing laser hair removal on dark skin.
